Waimahara: The Singing Spirit of Water
Connecting to nature in a Te Ao Māori city
There’s been a change in Myers Park. Down the steps from St. Kevins Arcade, past the grassy slopes, the children’s playground, the benches and that goat statue, there has been a transformation. The underpass for Mayoral Drive has gone from a barren, grey, concrete tunnel, to a place that thrums with feeling. A place that is special. Not only that, but I find it hard to imagine you could find something anywhere else like it in the world let alone the rest of Tāmaki Makaurau, Auckland - at least for now!
Sounds of water, trickling and rushing, is accompanied by a choir of birdsong, gracing your ears while instruments reverberate inside. As you step from the wooden walkways and enter the concrete grove that now nestles under Mayoral Drive, Ring links dangle from the ceiling, wind causing them to flow like a stream. Lights shift from blue, red, purple, white, amplifying the links movements but also soothing the mind as you journey through. Engraved concrete underfoot and green vines to your side. This place is Waimahara, an art installation that has been a decade in the making.
Waimahara envelops you in a multi-sensory embrace. It’s as if the waters and nature of the past returns, and I’ve often found myself leaning on one of the detailed concrete slopes, closing my eyes and being brought back to memories of resting by a stream during a hike. Or bushwalking as a kid. In such a incredible and unique way, it connects you with the very heart of nature, even though it sits in an underpass with cars and vehicles trundling and rumbling above, and a grey and barren expanse of Greys Avenue car park tars one entry point, or city life slowly makes its mark with graffiti and rubbish. Yet despite that, you cannot help but be transported away.
If it was only that, as it has been since its initial opening in December 2023, then it would still be a jewel in our city. But its also so much more. As much as it passively changes as you move within, its second part was recently finished and opened on June 27th, with what makes this a truly awe inspiring work of art and a world first (but hopefully not world last) place. Because if you learn and sing two especially crafted waiata, the entire soundscape and lightscape will follow along with you, and ripple with a tremendous torrent of energy and emotion and soul. Where have you ever seen or heard that before?
Waimahara was created by lead artist Graeme Tipene (with many others), who have brought nature, technology, and art into a beautiful symbiosis. And as much as it is art, it is also practical and incorporates flood mitigation, native trees, and a wetland garden for climate resilience.
As for the waiata, they were composed by Moeahi Kerehoma, Taru mai-i-Tawhiti Kerehoma-Hoani, and Tuirina Wehi. The waiata speak to the importance of water in te ao Māori, linking back to the meaning of Waimahara, a rememberence of water, and connecting to Te Waihorotiu, the stream which once ran openly but was undergrounded with the urbanisation of the City Centre.
I was lucky enough to be there on this opening, only a short jaunt from Matariki celebrations on K’Road, and I can truly say the experience of watching and hearing the waiata and the lights and the matching soundscape of Waimahara ingrained itself inside of me. It was magical and tremendous. It was a sight to behold and a wonder to hear. It was knowing and remembering. Taking it all in, both calming and energising. Soothing and intense. I could probably keep going, but it was incredible! It has made me wish to learn the waiata, and sing them myself.
The thing is. Whenever I pass through I always stop just to listen for a little. I have come to it many times since December just to sit. And feel. As I said, I often think back to trickling streams on long hikes. But sometimes there’s torrents of thunderstorms and heavy rain. But the kind you are safely at home listening to it outside, pattering on the roof. Or I imagine what the waters must of been like rushing where I was. Because what this is, is a connection to nature. Its a connection to our memories. The memories of ourselves. The memories of our history. The memories of this land and its water. It is one more part of the reindigenisation of this city, and I cannot wait to see more things like it. Just because this is the first, does not mean awe inspiring Te Ao Māori places of art and nature like Waimahara should be the last.
In the mean time, there are two waiata for me (and you) to learn, to sing, experience, and to feel. I cannot thank Tipene and the composers and everyone who contributed over the years for creating such a place. It is irreplaceable.
Waimahara is truly something special… so where is next?
It's made a grim place a nice space, pity our society means people must resort to sleeping overnight there.
Nice write up, great place 👍😀